Living Large at the Mizpah Hut

The Weather Channel (WC) was predicting two full-on sunny days, so we packed our big backpacks and headed for an overnight adventure at the Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) Mizpah Hut, which is nestled in a col between two 4,000-foot peaks: Mount Pierce and Mount Jackson in the Presidential Range.

As we were driving up, however, I got a "freeze alert" from the WC.  I wasn't too concerned.  Last year we stayed at the AMC hut at Lonesome Lake and I was ill-prepared for cold weather.  This time, I packed 2 long-john shirts, 1 long-john bottom, pants I wear snow shoeing, a thermal shirt, a long-sleeved cotton shirt, a down vest, a down powder puff, my technical jacket, and my down jacket.  Bring the freeze on!

The one thing I didn't bring was any rain gear and the sky looked very threatening.  The White Mountains really have their own weather system and it can change at the drop of a hat.  From now on, I'm gonna bring rain gear on every hike.  As the Fat Man says: "T'is better to have and not need than need and not have."  

Dark clouds gathering at the AMC Highland Center

We parked Horace the Honda at the AMC Highland Center.  You cross the road (carefully) to make your way to the Crawford Path trailhead.  The AMC website describes it as an "easy 2.6 miles" to the Mizpah hut.  

The dictionary describes easy as:
"Not hard or difficult; requiring no great labor or effort.  

I beg to differ.  With an elevation gain of 1,900 feet, I would describe it as a relentless uphill climb.  It took us 2.25 hours.  Another couple we met said it took them 3.5 hours.  

The trailhead

A little history: the Crawford Path was built in the 1880s, was used as a horse trail, and is the oldest, continuously maintained, hiking path in America. 

Oldest, continuously used hiking trail

The trail is filled with rocks so you have to watch your footing.  We passed a lovely little stream on the way up.  

After the first half hour, we had both stripped down to short-sleeved technical shirts and we were already soaked with sweat.  The folks coming down the trail were wearing winter parkas!  They said it had been windy and pouring rain most of the day. 

Suddenly I was really missing my rain gear. 

Some waterworks

I was so focused on getting up this beast that I didn't notice this lovely, wooden bridge until the way down.  It is perched upon a giant rock.

Cool bridge

At some point, we felt like we were in a Stephen King movie, because the path just keeps going and going and going.  There was also a crawling eye fog moving in that made everything feel surreal.  

Don't let the flat part fool you 

We finally got to the cutoff, which meant only 0.7 miles to dinner!  If you've never eaten at an AMC hut, you are really missing out.  They serve a 4-course dinner at 6 p.m. sharp that can't be beat after a strenuous hike.  You also get an amazing breakfast at 7 a.m.

Food is around the corner

The pictures don't do it justice, but towards the top of the trail, the moss and ground covering were emerald green.

Lucky charms forest

There were also several balance boards along the way.  Fortunately it wasn't too wet or muddy.

Balance boards

Finally we emerged from the woods to find our home for the night.  There were already about 40 guests there, but we were fortunate that the Fat Man found us an empty room right near the kitchen.  There's no heat in the huts, so a room near the kitchen oven is a bonus.  They also had a small library upstairs right above the kitchen that was super toasty.  

Front of the AMC hut

The kids who run the hut are amazing.  They pack and carry all the food and supplies on their backs up the trail.  This croo was a lot of fun and they made up little skits to inform us about hut etiquette (carry out all your trash, use your sleeves for napkins, and only take what food you are going to eat). A real bonus is that the bathrooms were inside the main building, unlike Lonesome Lake.

Main room

We met some great folks at dinner, which consisted of a fantastic cream of tomato soup, salad, fresh bread, delicious beef stew with noodles, and squares of goodness (coconut, chocolate, and lots of uncategorized gooey stuff) for dessert.  It's all served family style (hint: sit at the front of the table to get first dibs). 

Hard-working kitchen staff

After dinner, the Fat Man attended a lecture about weather (cliff notes: weather is fluid) while I read a book about women who have pioneered mountain climbing ("Women on High").  

It was very romantic (not) in our bunk beds, each of us snuggled in our own sleeping bag.  I took the bottom bunk, and of course, I banged my head.  I forgot to mention that I also brought 3 pairs of gloves, 2 hats, and a fleece headband.  Surprisingly, I didn't need any of them. 

Lights go out at 9:30 p.m. sharp in the main room (the huts are all solar powered so there are no lights anywhere else, which is why you need a headlamp) and you could hear a pin drop by then because everyone was fast asleep.

Take a load off, Fannie

We both slept like logs.  The Fat Man says I snored and it might have been the only night that he did not.  Breakfast was oatmeal, eggs, pumpkin muffins, and deliciously strong coffee.  The staff delivered the weather for the day: 5 below 0 on Mount Washington, but 50 and sunny near us.  Hurray!

Good morning, sunshine

Ledges outside the hut

By 8:30 we were packed and ready to make our descent down the mountain. We passed several out-of-breath hikers heading up and I did not envy them one bit.  

Stone slabs on the trail

About half-way down, the Fat Man suggested that we stop at the Mount Washington Hotel for a lunch of lobster and macaroni for him and salmon on salad for me.  

Grungy by morning and hoity toity by afternoon.  It's just how we roll. 

More food around the corner

Heidi's rating:★★★★ A wonderful experience.
The Fat Man's rating: A bowl of fresh tomato soup, 8 croo-made chocolate-chip cookies, and 3 pumpkin muffins.